THE iDOLM@STER > iM@S 2 video requests

im@s2 manual blue screening - A quick adventure and some notes.

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Nii-san:
I'm interested in making my own videos also, but I just wanted to make sure of a few things if anyone could reassure me on them:

I'll need a capture device, something like Blackmagic Intensity using the HDMI, correct?
Also from what I understand, I can use Adobe Premier Pro to capture in full 1080p, After Effects for special effects, and Photoshop for screenshots.

I just wanted to be 100% sure this was the way it was done. Thanks!  ;D

TheTanStar:
HDMI recording will not work on a retail PS3, only a dev unit (because HDCP can only be disabled on a dev unit), at least until a new CFW comes out that can disable HDCP. In other words, the best way to record is through component + SPDIF/TOSLINK for 5.1 audio. Also, DO NOT record in 1080P, it's usually an upscale, making the output just look worse than it needs to be.

Nii-san:

--- Quote from: TheTanStar on November 22, 2011, 06:38:02 am ---HDMI recording will not work on a retail PS3, only a dev unit (because HDCP can only be disabled on a dev unit), at least until a new CFW comes out that can disable HDCP. In other words, the best way to record is through component + SPDIF/TOSLINK for 5.1 audio. Also, DO NOT record in 1080P, it's usually an upscale, making the output just look worse than it needs to be.

--- End quote ---

Oh really? Man... but you're right, I forgot that iDOLM@STER 2 is 720p (at least that's what it says on the back of the case)

So I should record in 720p using component and 5.1 audio using toslink? Which means I'd need a capture device with component and toslink in/out...

I skimmed the internet and recording 5.1 using toslink doesn't look promising, hardware and software wise, so maybe just component 720p with stereo audio?

I just wanted to record it as lossless as possible...but 720p stereo is good enough huh?  ;D

Setsuna:

--- Quote from: TheTanStar on November 22, 2011, 06:38:02 am ---HDMI recording will not work on a retail PS3, only a dev unit (because HDCP can only be disabled on a dev unit), at least until a new CFW comes out that can disable HDCP. In other words, the best way to record is through component + SPDIF/TOSLINK for 5.1 audio. Also, DO NOT record in 1080P, it's usually an upscale, making the output just look worse than it needs to be.

--- End quote ---

Well, actually, im@s 2 X360 isn't, but the gains in doing so are not worth the trouble (And it requires overclocking it due to the fact there's a non zero chance it'll literally have framerate issues.)

The bigger problem is that recording in 5.1 audio requires a lot of work (mostly due to the recsyncing since you can't use the capture card to handle it.)

As well, Dev units disable HDCP only when a game's running - it's a technical point, but mostly a note you can't use it to output 1080p60 (or even 3D) out of a component for blu-ray. (If you've ever considered sticking it to the MPAA or the RIAA and streaming the Titanic in 3D, you'll have to work at it a bit harder at it, unfortunately.)

In any case, recording in lossless 1080p60 (or 3D while we're on the topic) isn't really feasable - the cost of the cards alone to attempt it are somewhere in the ballpark of a couple of thousand dollars, and you still need to add further support units, batting it well in the vicinity of about $4000 from my last glance at it.


--- Quote from: Nii-san on November 22, 2011, 07:08:27 am ---Oh really? Man... but you're right, I forgot that iDOLM@STER 2 is 720p (at least that's what it says on the back of the case)

So I should record in 720p using component and 5.1 audio using toslink? Which means I'd need a capture device with component and toslink in/out...

I skimmed the internet and recording 5.1 using toslink doesn't look promising, hardware and software wise, so maybe just component 720p with stereo audio?

I just wanted to record it as lossless as possible...but 720p stereo is good enough huh?  ;D

--- End quote ---

For most part, yes. Most of the time for MAD work, you won't be recording the audio and will be superimposing on the top. If you have a 5.1 track or better to superimpose, do that.

Finding something to take it isn't that hard an issue - putting it all back in sync on the other hand requires some fiddly work. Most people don't expect youtube to fire 5.1 regardless anyway.

If you want real lossless recording, you'll need to record every pixel unmodified. The Blackmagic Intensity PRO (you can't use the Intensity - no component, and unless you own a dev unit (or somehow can hack it in) you can't use the HDMI port due to HDCP) will most likely be sufficent.

However, you'll need to have a HD fast enough to keep up with the approxmently 130MB/s. Most people use several HDs in a RAID0 format which works most of the time (some issues eventually of course) . It's cheaper than my method, but I don't settle for near enough - I use a SAS HD to handle that.

Nii-san:

--- Quote from: Setsuna on November 22, 2011, 08:45:57 am ---Well, actually, im@s 2 X360 isn't, but the gains in doing so are not worth the trouble (And it requires overclocking it due to the fact there's a non zero chance it'll literally have framerate issues.)

The bigger problem is that recording in 5.1 audio requires a lot of work (mostly due to the recsyncing since you can't use the capture card to handle it.)

As well, Dev units disable HDCP only when a game's running - it's a technical point, but mostly a note you can't use it to output 1080p60 (or even 3D) out of a component for blu-ray. (If you've ever considered sticking it to the MPAA or the RIAA and streaming the Titanic in 3D, you'll have to work at it a bit harder at it, unfortunately.)

In any case, recording in lossless 1080p60 (or 3D while we're on the topic) isn't really feasable - the cost of the cards alone to attempt it are somewhere in the ballpark of a couple of thousand dollars, and you still need to add further support units, batting it well in the vicinity of about $4000 from my last glance at it.

For most part, yes. Most of the time for MAD work, you won't be recording the audio and will be superimposing on the top. If you have a 5.1 track or better to superimpose, do that.

Finding something to take it isn't that hard an issue - putting it all back in sync on the other hand requires some fiddly work. Most people don't expect youtube to fire 5.1 regardless anyway.

If you want real lossless recording, you'll need to record every pixel unmodified. The Blackmagic Intensity PRO (you can't use the Intensity - no component, and unless you own a dev unit (or somehow can hack it in) you can't use the HDMI port due to HDCP) will most likely be sufficent.

However, you'll need to have a HD fast enough to keep up with the approxmently 130MB/s. Most people use several HDs in a RAID0 format which works most of the time (some issues eventually of course) . It's cheaper than my method, but I don't settle for near enough - I use a SAS HD to handle that.

--- End quote ---

Alright so the Blackmagic Intensity PRO is a good choice...

Regarding the hard drive, what kind of specs would you recommend?

Not sure if my main hard drive would be fast enough, it's a Western Digital WD5001AALS-00L3B2. Looking around, it doesn't seem to reach reads of 130MB/s....

I assume a solid state drive would be more than enough? Again, looking around, the Corsair Force 3 looks good...

Thanks for the advice! I appreciate it ;D

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